Menu Icon


Looking for homebrewing gift ideas? Check out our previous gift guides here or here!
Also, if you enjoy BrewUnited, please consider doing your Amazon shopping via our affiliate link!



You are here: Home --> Forum Home --> Brewing Forum --> Gear/Equipment --> Valved Fermenters

Jump to:    1   
flapjackcarl
Houston, TX
Posts


So I'm looking to try out a valve fermenter for the first time. I like the idea of being able to take hydrometer samples and make transfers with minimal sanitation. Ideally what I'd like is a ported carboy with a valve that will hold a seal, and ideally has the ability to rotate an inner arm to allow the draw depth to be haired based on trub height. 

My concerns are these:
1.) How does one keep the internals of a valve sanitized. Presumably you could cap the outside of the valve after use, but it seems risky at best.
2.) Leakage. Typically I've seen products that are ported and use a bottling bucket type valve. The gaskets on these are not the most heavy duty and seem like a potential leak point
3.) Does such a product exist. I can't seem to find anything that has an adjustable draw off height, which I'd really like to have

If anyone's got some practical experience with this type of vessel, let me know!




Posted 34 days ago.

uberg33k
Charter Member
The Internet
314 Posts


Yes, you need to use a fermenter with tri-clamp ports and a rotating racking arm.  Something like this https://conical-fermenter.com/7.3-Gallon-Fermenter.html with the racking arm (shown on the page below the main pic).  Make sure you use EPDM for your seals or something a little more resilient so it can stand up to pressure, etc.  To keep the outside of the valve (butterfly or sanitary ball) sanitized, most people will flame it or use an sanitary spray (pure alcohol or starsan) before opening the valve.

An alternative is fermenting in a keg.  You'd take samples and whatnot via pressure, like you were serving off the keg.




Posted 34 days ago.

mchrispen
Bastrop, TX
485 Posts


Hey there.

I ferment in 1/2 barrel conicals, as well as in 2 sizes of the Speidels and various buckets and carboys.

I assume when you say valved, you are referring to those with spigots or racking ports. In using the conicals for over 2 years, I have never had a contaminated batch that can be traced to the valves. So to that end:
  1. Fully cleaning the valves when cleaning the vessel is critical. Even the Speidels all get taken fully apart, soaked in a mild PBW solution, rinsed and soaked again in StarSan. Make sure to run a clean hose brush in and work any valves open and closed to ensure solution gets to all parts (including the PBW soak). My stainless parts also get a short run in the pressure cooker to sterilize.
  2. When sampling, first hit with SS and wipe with a paper towel. Then open the valve and vent any trub/hop gunk into a spare glass. Then pull your sample. Close the valve fully, and shoot StarSan up into the valve. Let this drip out and look for any visible sticky gunk. You may need to run a sanitized hose brush into the valve to clean it. I rack out of the sampling ports on mine - so keeping this clean is necessary.

Valves are my enemy... so make sure that your valves are fully closed before racking wort into them. Two or three times I have looked over from my pump/chiller to see wort spreading on the floor. It sucks. So I now use blue tape and verify that they are closed, especially on my Speidels. Otherwise, if you use the valves properly and seal the with the appropriate gasket - no leaks.

The only adjustable height valves I have seen are on conicals and on the BetterBottle ports. Usually a hard plastic gasket is used and allows you to gently change the dip tube orientation. (I can do this on my MoreBeer conical, but not on my SS Brew Techs). The BetterBottle simple flow and racking tube can also be oriented to just above the trub for PET carboys. www.better-bottle.com/products_master...

I have some real issues with the BB port - it seems flimsy and I worry about "pulling" the tab to allow airflow. It puts lateral forces that may weaken the walls. It also seems to flow very slowly. It worked for me for several years, and now that one is dedicated to mead, but I still use a wine thief rather than struggle with the valve.





Posted 34 days ago.

ingoogni
nl
314 Posts


|So I'm looking to try out a valve fermenter for the first time. I like
the idea of being able to take hydrometer samples and
|make transfers
with minimal sanitation.

Valves are more work, a lot more, ore sanitation, more doubts and headaches.

My smallest system is completely valve less form mash tun to fermenter, it is the easiest to maintain. The mid size set hat a few and I'll b removing the one from the mash tun and replace it with Valentine. Fermentation is done in 50 & 100 liter kegs, the keg valves are taken apart after every fermentation. I'll cut the top out those kegs soon and weld in some 6" triclamps.

The big rig has two or three valves per apparatus, close to 20 in total, it's a pain, even though they are relative low maintenance DIN 11851 butterfly valves they are still taken apart after every brew.





Posted 34 days ago.
Edited 34 days ago by ingoogni

flapjackcarl
Houston, TX
314 Posts


I'd love to go the full conical route, but I ferment in a mini fridge, so I'm space limited. 

The better bottle currently seems to be the best option, but it just seems...questionable




Posted 34 days ago.

uberg33k
Charter Member
The Internet
314 Posts


> but I ferment in a mini fridge, so I'm space limited. 

Then your only real option is fermenting in sixtels for what you're asking for.  The ported BB does work, but I'm not 100% convinced the valve is sanitary.




Posted 34 days ago.

chino_brews
Charter Member
Eden Prairie, MN
301 Posts


I've got one Better Bottle fermentor with the racking arm/valve. I'm not
a huge fan of it because I don't trust the port to stay sanitary if I
use it for samples. And what's the point if I don't? I don't use that
fermentor much anymore, although I'm thinking of using it as a secondary
for a sour eber I have going.

What I did when I used it was to
keep the port covered with a sanitized plastic baggie secured with a
rubber band. When I was done sampling, I tried to clean the port out as
best as I could with a cotton swab soaked in sanitizer, prayed it with
sanitizer, and then covered it again with the baggie.

I wish there was a "Vinnie nail" equivalent for PET carboys that didn't run the risk of contamination like spigots do.




Posted 34 days ago.

davidg
Kula, HI
137 Posts


I have the ported carboy that Northern Brewer sells.  I like it, but I don't use the port for anything other than racking.  For some reason it never occurred to me to try and take a sample from it, probably because I don't know how I'd keep it clean.  I've used it for 2 batches so far, without any sort of infections.  I just take it all apart after each use.

I predict though that this thing doesn't last forever.  Can't say why because I'm not sure, but I just have a feeling about this one. 




Posted 34 days ago.

Jump to:    1